In not too long, we will all be itching to get out in our vegetable and flower gardens to start the planting season. But, since it is way too early for most of us to even think about working in the soil, I thought I would take this opportunity to talk ABOUT soil.
Soil is obviously very important to plant growth. It not only provides a physical medium in which your plants grow, it is also a reservoir of nutrients, air, and water – three requirements for plant growth.
Because it is so important to the health and well-being of your plants, it should become very important to you as a gardener. Awareness of the properties of your garden soil will allow you to adapt your cultural practices so your soil environment will be most conducive to healthy plant growth.
What kind of soil do you have?
Mineral soils, the most common soil type, are classified by particle size – clay, silt, and sand. The soil texture is the relative percentages of these different sized particles in your soil. In most soils, one of these particle sizes predominates and this is used to classify the soil. Since silt is usually present in small quantities, most soil is classified as either sandy (largest particle size) or clay (smallest particle size).
Clay soils are made up of small plate-like particles and thus have the smallest pore spaces (spaces between particles). This causes very slow drainage and is why clay soils waterlog so quickly. Clay soils are easily compacted when wet which further reduces pore space and makes the drainage problems even worse. This is a common problem around new construction where heavy equipment packs down the soil. On the positive side, clay soils have the capacity to hold lots of nutrients!
Sandy soils are made up of large (relatively), irregularly shaped particles. These create large pore spaces and are thus fast draining and dry out very quickly. Sandy soils do not compact but they also do not hold fertilizer nutrients well, as the nutrients tend to quickly wash out of the soil due to the fast drainage.
Loam soils are the best of all worlds because they are made up of a combination of sand, silt, and clay, possessing characteristics of each relative to the amount of each in the soil. Loam soils hold water – yet not too much; they hold nutrients; and they don’t compact like heavy clay soils.
What can you do to improve your soil?
The number one solution for poor soil, whether it is clay or sandy, is to add organic matter. Even in small quantities, the addition of organic material greatly improves the quality of your soil for several reasons:
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It provides a source of nutrients as it decomposes, acting like a slow release fertilizer.
- It improves the structure of clay soils. As organic matter decomposes, it releases humic acid which acts as a glue to bind tiny clay particles together into larger aggregates, thus giving it properties more like sand and allowing it to drain better.
- It improves the water and nutrient holding capacity of sandy soils by acting like a sponge.
- It improves aeration and stimulates healthy root formation.
- It adds beneficial microbes to the soil which speed up decomposition and thus the release of nutrients to the soil. This helps keep the soil in a healthy, balanced condition.
There are many different forms of organic matter that can be added to your soil to help improve its texture and structure. Good quality compost, such as Blue Ridge Organics “Super Compost”, can be found pre-packaged in large bags at your local garden center. Good organic material can also be brought in by the truckload or you can make it yourself by creating a compost bin or by shredding your fall leaves. In many towns and cities, composted leaves are available free of charge or for a nominal fee – you might just have to call and arrange to pick it up. Other forms of organic matter to enrich your soil are: leaf mold, peat moss, composted manure, composted hay or grass clippings, green manure (a cover crop such as alfalfa that is tilled under in spring), and finely shredded bark mulch.
The Bottom Line …
Adding organic matter to your soil, regardless of what type of soil you have, can only improve it. Deep well-drained soils with good soil texture hold a lot of nutrients and retain the optimum amount of water. The addition of good organic material makes poor soils better and good soils great!
Until next time – Happy Gardening!





Hi Lori,
I enjoy all your informative information and love seeing pictures too…thank you.
My husband, Rick, has been trimming some of our trees and noticed our one maple tree (he says it’s not a sugar maple) has been bleeding from where he trimmed some of the smaller branches…He’s getting concerned about it…do you think he has done any damage to it or is this normal???
Let me know what you think…I can attach a picture if that would help?
Thanks.
Vivian
Hi Vivian – Thanks for the nice comments. Maple trees will bleed pretty heavily when they are pruned in late winter or early spring. This really doesn’t hurt the tree but it is better to avoid pruning them at this time. My grandfather would always tap his sugar maples on or around Washington’s birthday so mid February is “sap time” for maples. I think the warm January we had may have moved things up a bit this year! The better time to prune any species of maple is in mid summer or early to mid winter (depending on the weather!).
I enjoy your posts. We have a long narrow strip between our house and the sidewalk along a busycity street. We’ve been ‘working’ on it for about five years but didn’t know a lot when we started–looking back, we should have hired someone to improve the clay soil deeply, and with equipment. Since we’ve learned better we’ve amended thoroughly when we plant new bushes, perennials, bulbs, etc. We know we need to do more. What’s the simplest way to improve the soil at this late date without disburbing/killing what’s already there? We have been scattering Leaf=gro and scratching it in with a hand cultivator now and then, and adding a shredded leaves/veggie peelings homemade compost when it’s ready, but can’t really work that down into the soil.
Any suggestions? Thanks so much for your insights.
Sandy
The best way to improve the soil in an established planting is to do pretty much what you are doing. I would suggest that you topdress the whole area with layer of good quality compost or Leafgro. This organic matter will slowly be broken down and become incorporated into the soil below by worms and other soil organisms. In the meantime, it will act as a fine mulch in the garden. As you have been doing, amend the soil more deeply when you plant new plants or when you dig, divide, and replant existing perennials. You can add more compost or a coarser mulch yearly or as needed as the previous layer breaks down and becomes part of the soil. It will just take some time!